Copenhagen Fashion Week continues to expand and develop as a fashion capital in the world. For Autumn 2018 collection, it left the strong impression of contemporary and exclusive designs from unique brands such as Malene Birge, Mark Kenly Domino Tan. The hearts of fashionistas will feel warmer in the winter after seeing new looks of trench coats, puffer jackets or blazers. Mess Magazine will highlight 5 best shows in Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Held in an industrial space in Copenhagens docklands with a mix of Danish pop songs, Ganni presented an AW18 collection titled Angels with full of the bohemian gumption and flowing silhouettes. Ganni’s Creative Director Ditte Reffstrup drew inspirations from Wim Wender’s seminal film “Wings of Desire, the brand’s constant muse Fredreikke Sofie and the city of Copenhagen itself. The themes and inspirations were found throughout the collection. Wings of desire and its trapeze artist could be seen in rhinestone-accented silk wool trousers, flowing dresses and long woolen overcoats. Besides, the pattern on double-denim suit is Kraš’s images of Copenhagen. The color palette was a mixture of white, black, pink and serene blue. Each piece of the collection emphasized prints such as Ganni symbols including logo, florals, animal stripes. Embroidered polka dots were decorated on bags, dresses, and tops while angel wings appeared on sweaters, T-shirts and socks. The Gannie collection embodies the carefree spirit of the Ganni Girl.
2. Malene Birger
Malene Birger surprised us with a new, fresh, unique vision in the Copenhagen Fashion Week. Instead of letting models catwalk on the runway, this brand presented their latest collection through a gargantuan panoramic screen. A short film with models walking in and out of the frames demonstrates the current mood and concept of the label throughout new looks. Fashion, visuals, and arts were combined together; therefore; the crowd in an industrial location could not take their eyes off the widescreen. Inspired by the iconic 1960s ski wear and 1930s evening gowns, the collection brought the gentle elegance which can be seen in shearling coats, silk dresses, tailored blazers, and luxurious knits. The palette emphasized bold colors such as black, navy with eye-catching prints. This season, the house’s signature flower print was modified by playing with colors and reducing the scale. Its aim is complementing the new attitude with a three-dimensional effect.
3. Mark Kenly Domino Tan
Compared to other contemporary designers, Mark Kenly Domino Tan is a more directional designer. He is well-known for one of Copenhagen’s most skilled tailors. His collection stood out in Copenhagen Fashion Week by presenting a high-end selection of luxurious clothing for modern woman. Silhouettes are loose, minimalistic, and classic. With slicked-back hair and low ponytails, the label naturally demonstrated the unisex on the runway. As a result, exquisite designs are suitable not only for work but also for formal occasions. Mark Kenly Domino Tan showed his collection in a raw and cold concrete structure. He accentuated materials with basic color to create luxurious aesthetic rather than focusing patterns on each look. Since this is an Autumn 2018 collection, the brand concentrated on oversized wool trench coats, suiting, blazers, languid skirts. All models wore a pair of black chunky loafers to walk on the runway inside an old warehouse house building.
4. Cecilie Bahnsen
The Copenhagen’s Galleri Nicolai Wallner space was filled up by the sugary baby doll dresses with girlish and saccharine of Cecilie Bahnsen. Sharp-edged silhouettes and voluminous skirts created a sense of modernity. Found inspiration from Dan Graham’s glass sculptures, Cecilie interpreted her collection like the connection between “humans and layers”. The layering of transparent and opaque styles made Cecilie’s designs look more elegant and attractive. Ceciline Bahnse is a brand which focuses on craftsmanship and traditional techniques such as quilting, patchwork. Thus, all looks in the collection were handmade with phenomenally soft, fluffy fabrics. In spite of the voluminous shapes and sometimes heavy quilted fabrics, the pieces were still light and soft. A wide range of color palette from solid black, pastel pink, white and green created a contrast about color in the whole collection. Besides, feminine dresses and skirts also mixed with slouchy sweaters, cotton T-shirts and, black sneakers.
5. Astrid Andersen
Astrid Andersen made a lasting impression for fashionistas with her seasonal fashion show at Copenhagen. This show is a continuation of the previous menswear collection which presented in London in early January this year. She drew inspirations from the Buffalo collective of artists and designers of ‘80s London’. Although Buffalo was not widely recognized, this is still an art and fashion movement. The designer experienced new colors and patterns on different materials from hot pink fur, metallic blue jacket to yellow head-to-toe tartan. Bold patterns, vibrant colors, and voluminous shapes can be seen on designs. Additionally, photograph prints from Buffalo era were found bandanas, cowboys hats, puffer jackets, and skirts. Pieces broke the boundaries and challenged us by letting sportswear, menswear, and womenswear combined together. The collection as a whole blew a new wind with a cool and fresh vibe on the runway.