London Fashion Week Fall 2018 has stunned the crowd with its impressively breathtaking designs in the latest collections from many renowned brands and designers. From Erdem, Marques’Almeida to Christopher Kane, the audience has been blessed with a range of trendy styles. For the Fall 2018 collection, fashion designers created a sense of femininity and the mixture of 80s vibe and contemporary style. For those who would like to catch up with what the Fashion Week has offered, Mess Magazine will give you a brief recap of 4 shows.
Inspired by dazzling American dancer Adele Astaire – sister of Fred and widow of Lord Charles Cavendish, Erdem sketched his latest collection in London with powerful of femininity. The love story of Adele is not only a beautiful story but also a sad story. Adele’s husband, who was the son of the Duke of Devonshire, passed away very early on in the marriage. Every year after that, Adele visited the Irish castle where she had lived and had memorable memories with her husband. Adele kept coming back year after year and it made the designer of Erdem feel obsessed and create incredible designs. A hint of mourning expresses through dark colors of the collection. National Portrait Gallery was filled up with dark and flowery jacquard dresses, panne velvet bejeweled dresses, sheer black-dotted veils, sequined skirts, capes and long gloves. Gold and silvery flowers were put on dark coat, capes and dresses while dark flowers were tailored on velvet long dresses. Erdem’s collection created the meeting of two different words and let glamour met and combined with country styles of the noble aristocracy.
While other labels focus on trends to design modest looks, Marques’Alemeida realized that they need to do something different and their responsibility is making fashion inclusive, diverse, relevant and suitable for contemporary girl and women. The Portuguese couple found their inspiration through social media platforms, especially Instagram. “We look at these girls, what they’re posting, what they are wearing, how they wear it and then just spin it all together”, explained Marques. They even invited these girls including Zenobia, whose mother used to model for Christian Lacroix to walk in their show. Each model represented the brand’s signature drive for self-expression. The designers collaborated with Louise Gray, whose artworks and empowering slogans such as “Power Woman” or “Open Your Own Door” to emphasize the femininity through oversized graphic sweatshirts, motorcycle jackets, and utilitarian pants. This collection used Lacroix references for their streetwear. Besides, acid-wash tie-dye printed was seen throughout in looks like roomy cargo pants, fluid silk dresses, balloon skirts and in trim boot-cut jeans.
3. Isa Arfen
This is the first time Serafina Sama brought exclusive designs on the runway of London Fashion Week. Drawing inspiration from Joel D. Levinson’s photographs of flea markets in Seventies California and her authentic experience on Friday morning when she passed Portobello Road market and caught people trying vintage clothes over their own outfits. For this season, Sama focused and worked on the romantic reference. Sama blow Eighties vibes on the runway with charming and wacky pieces. She mixed clothes with punchy English eccentricities like plaid blouses with balloon sleeves and pinafore dresses patchworked with tartan. The tartan played an important role in highlighting the beauty of designs. They can be seen in the panels of high-waisted skirts, the sleeves of trench-coats, long pants and denim items. Coats with different styles and colors from a fluffy faux fur coat, red wool coat to caramel coat which has tartan sleeves caught all attention of the crowd in London.
4. Christopher Kane
The uprising of the #MeToo movement – a campaign demonstrated the widespread prevalence of sexual assault and harassment, especially in the workplace inspired the whole collection of Christopher Kane. Christopher Kane dares to say about sex out loud on the runway. “I’ve always been obsessed with human behaviour and sex — whether that’s the biology of it or the actual physical act of it. I based this collection on the joy of sex, but I did it in a beautiful, provocative, sensual way” – he said. The coats and mini-skirts with lace inserts used black leather as the main material. Skimpy red lace body dress and the pulse-raising set of laminated, plasticized, marabou-edged expressed the joys of fashion. Additionally, the slogan “More Joy” printed on black sweaters. Fashion is sex and sex is fashion; therefore; this collection emphasized the beauty of women’s body through see-through dresses with dark colors such as red, black, grey and purple.