Following almost three years of uncertainty with the dreaded pandemic, New York Fashion Week returned from a digital world to the stage, much to the delight of all. Hotter than ever, the city was on fire with the creative energy of renowned designers, models and street style to die for.
Proenza Schouler opened NYFW and without a doubt stole the show; the spring/summer collection by creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez was inspired by freedom and movement. They exhibited knitwear, ruffles, and tactile sensuous textures. Brilliant rainbow riffs were seen on a long, black duster coat and Kendall Jenner stunned all in an extravagant white crocheted dress with tassels and beautiful appliqué.
Collina Strada gave nature and beauty in the newest spring/summer 2023 collection. Made with upcycled and regenerative materials, the responsible brand exhibited floaty dresses made from orange pulp fibre and fluttering butterfly details against the backdrop of the Big Apple.
Christian Siriano blew audiences away with his show set in none other than the late Elizabeth Taylor’s former Manhattan townhouse. Models made their way down the grand curved staircase which served as a backdrop for the spectacle. Big names were in attendance, including Janet Jackson, Coco Rocha, and Aquaria. With a more pointed emphasis on evening wear, Christiano wanted his usual upfront glamour to be more subtle in his newest collection. The elegant and inviting relaxed couture pieces give a nod to old Hollywood fashion icons like Audrey Hepburn.
Silvia Venturini Fendi and Kim Jones of Fendi ended Friday evening with a show to commemorate the legendary Baguette bag’s 25th anniversary.
Joseph Altuzarra’s spring/summer 2023 collection seen on Saturday was inspired by the captivating mysteries of the desert, taking inspiration from intrepid travellers and blending this with vibrant, electric prints and embellishments. This collection celebrates the power of imagination.
In a space overlooking the East River at Pier 17 at South Street Seaport, the iconic Jason Wu exhibited effortlessly elegant beaded gowns interspersed with digital prints. On the same day, Victor Glemaud showcased cosy knits at Rockefeller Center’s famed skating rink as models navigated around on roller skates.
To create a contemporary interpretation of traditional Americana on the Brooklyn waterfront in contrast to the New York cityscape, Tommy Hilfiger joined forces with British designer Richard Quinn. Kris Jenner, Kourtney Kardashian, Travis Barker, John Legend, and Kate Moss were among the A-list guests at the Sunday event, which paid homage to Andy Warhol’s Factory studio, another historical symbol of the city.
On Monday, The “Secret Garden” of Manhattan’s iconic Plaza Hotel served as inspiration for a breathtaking assortment of exquisite floral designs showcased by Carolina Herrera’s creative director, Wes Gordon.
Maryam Nassir Zadeh began her show with the word ‘waves’, meant to represent both her time spent on the idyllic Greek island of Hydra, as well as the continuation and fluidity of time. She layered light pieces with heavier pieces in order to capture the delicacy of the fabrics. For this collection, Maryam wanted to focus on the natural form of the human body, and work around this to create these free-flowing, naturalistic pieces.
Coach is known for incorporating the energy of New York City into its collections, with vibrant and electrifying silhouettes – the latest spring/summer RTW collection did not waver from this classic, exploring Coach’s American heritage through pop culture and circularity. Lil Nas X made their runway debut with Coach at the VIP packed show, marking the beginning of their time as a global ambassador for the famed fashion house. The show was dripping with relaxed silhouettes as Coach mastered the art of layering, with bitter earthy tones to match the mood.
Introducing the first-of-its-kind event – Vogue World: New York. Vogue presented a live editorial fashion show, presenting favourite looks from the autumn/winter 2022 collections, including pieces from the likes of Balenciaga, Dior, Gucci, Valentino, Burberry, Coach, Michael Kors, Brother Vellies, Bode, Conner Ives, Christopher John Rogers, Collina Strada, Matty Bovan, Ralph Lauren, and Tory Burch. The event also featured a street fair, where both in-person and online attendees were able to purchase limited-edition designer pieces created in collaboration with leading brands. The infectious energy of the event really hit the nail on the head in terms of representing the wild culture and excitement of New York City.
The Resistance Revival Chorus gave a live performance on Tuesday as part of the Gabriela Hearst show that was staged in the spacious Brooklyn Navy Yard warehouse. The chorus was dressed entirely in white for the event. The ancient Greek poet Sappho served as the inspiration for the collection on display alongside the performers.
Peter Do spent the last three years designing exclusively women’s wear, but the designer is now adding menswear to his collections. The show opened with a men’s look, a slick black double breasted jacket over a white shirt, paired with black satin trousers. This look was modelled by the influential frontman of K-Pop group NCT – celebrity influencers play an important part in the promotion of Peter Do’s newest collections. The majority of Peter Do’s clothing aims to be unisex and genderless.
The climatic show of the evening was that of Tory Burch. Stationed on a pier along the Hudson at sunset, the designer showcased clothing that is neither restrictive nor so oversized that it entirely hides the model’s figure – instead, he created clothing that simply complements and is true to the body and its shape. The runway this evening saw a mix of gauge knits, double layered skirts, boxy blazers or long, shiny jackets to complete the look.
NYFW closed with exciting shows from Michael Kors, Will Chavarria and Tom Ford. At Kors’ show the aim was to focus on movement and sensuality, which was seen through a combination of chic urban tailoring mixed with the hedonistic spirit of resort wear. Bandeaus and sarongs were complemented with a elegant black blazer on Bella Hadid, whilst other looks saw long pleated trousers, playing with embellishments of fringe.
Set against the backdrop of New York’s spectacular Marble Collegiate Cathedral, Willy Chavarria delivered an unparalleled fluid runway collection. Chavarria went for nothing short of 1950s elegance and grandeur in his designs, with billowing wide-legged trousers, classy double breasted suiting and bell shaped robes and tops floating through the venue.
Tom Ford returned to his regular slot at 8pm to cap off what was an incredible NYFW. The runway dazzled with pastel lamé and stunning black lingerie lace, giving us a Hollywood Boulevard vibe, and the event featured A-list celebrities like Madonna, Chris Rock, and Chiara. The runway was a respectable nod to many past collections of the designer with references to previous shows.
